Sailing on the Gulf of Cortez

Howard and Janet Fletcher with their sailboat, the Le Ann. (Courtesy photo)

The Sea of Cortez, better known in the United States as the Gulf of California, is, and has been for a long time, a popular destination for the sport of sailing, as well as sport and commercial fishing. Unlike the Eastern Coast of Mexico, which opens into the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean (and the Bermuda Triangle), the Sea of Cortez is considered a relatively calm place to sail, between the main coast of Mexico on the East and the Baja Peninsula on West.

The Sea of Cortez is home to a wide variety of sea life. Several types of whales annually migrate here, and huge sea turtles, manta rays, and sharks are regularly seen. A huge 60' whale-shark, dubbed "The Black Demon," long thought to be extinct, has recently been sighted in these waters. Record catches of sport fishes are reported annually. Commercial fishing for shrimp, anchovies and sardines is a major industry for Mexico.

Several years ago Howard Fletcher, a McCook citizen and an avid sailor on Nebraska Great Lakes, succumbed to the lure of salt water sailing, on the Sea of Cortez, and persuaded his wife, Janet, and friends, Garnet and Dorothy Henton, to accompany him and act as crew on his 23-foot Aquarius sailboat, the "Le Ann."

According to Dr. Batty, a McCook physician, and a veteran sailor on Nebraska and Colorado lakes, Fletcher was an able sailor of small sailboats on Nebraska lakes, and handled his craft with considerable skill.

Fletcher's destination was Guaymas, Mexico, and the North American Sailboat Association Races. Fletcher had no plans to participate in the Bahia San Carlos Races, but felt that he and his crew could enjoy the 45-boat regatta from the deck of the Le Ann.

While they were there, it was only natural that the four would take a short sail to Bahia Kino, some 70 miles up the coast from San Carlos. The trip to Kino was thoroughly enjoyable even though the wind suddenly failed, and for most of the first day they were becalmed, and managed to make but four miles by nightfall. After that, favorable winds prevailed and they had good sailing for four days, until they were just outside the harbor at Bahia Kino.

The four had managed to do a bit of fishing, and enjoyed seeing the whales, who seemed to accompany them on their trip by swimming very close to their boat (too close to Janet's way of thinking). Other boats, commercial shrimp boats, contacted them along the way, and they were able to buy fresh shrimp for several meals. The salt air and the thrill of sailing on the open sea gave everyone a ravenous appetite.

As they approached the harbor at Bahia Kino they encountered a number of shrimp boats headed out to sea. When they asked the captain of one of the boats why they were headed out to sea at such an hour, the reply was "Chubasco, Chubasco", a term of which Howard was not familiar. He and his crew were about to learn the meaning of Chubasco, up close and personal.

A Chubasco is basically a strong wind, which arises suddenly, out of a cloudless sky. On the Sea of Cortez these winds typically come from the east, out of the mountains, and can reach a velocity of 60 knots or more, producing rough seas, with waves of 10 feet or more. Such a storm can last for three or four days.

For Captain Fletcher, the Bahia Kino harbor was the destination for the Le Ann, where they could ride out the storm, yet not so close that they would be dashed upon the rocks along the shore. For the next 48 hours the little crew was buffeted by strong winds and 8 to 10-foot waves. The constant beating caused their little boat to groan, creak, bang, and roll with each large swell, yet it never broke. Walking on the deck during this time was dangerous. The fury of the winds made talking almost impossible. There was a good bit of praying by the four. Resetting the anchors for the boat, both fore and aft, was a continuous task. The boat pitched so violently that there were long moments when Howard (who seemed undaunted by the storm), at the bow of the boat was not visible to the other three. It was fortunate that at the last minute Howard had secured extremely heavy ropes, to which he attached their anchors. When someone expressed his fear that the waves would upend the boat, Howard explained that they carried 900 pounds of ballast in the hull, so that if the Le Ann were swamped it would immediately right itself. All they had to do was be sure they held on to the boat. His crew was not entirely convinced.

Whereas everyone had gargantuan appetites during the voyage to Kino, after the storm hit the only thing that anyone consumed was Dramamine -- Dramamine for breakfast, lunch, and supper. It helped, but only to a degree. Everyone kept his own personal bucket, close at hand -- for emergencies.

Finally, about midnight of the second day, the winds subsided, and soon after that the waves began to diminish. The crew was able to keep the tea kettle from slipping off the stove, and everyone was able to take a bit of soup (their first nourishment in 48 hours). Best of all, they managed sleep in their bunks, for the first time since the Chubasco made its appearance.

The trip back to San Carlos was ideal, the type of sailing adventure that was anticipated when they arrived on the Sea of Cortez. The winds were steady, and the Le Ann, showing no ill effects for all her pounding by the storm, sailed smoothly, easily covering 20 miles and more per day.

On the voyage back to San Carlos, the Le Ann was accompanied by hundreds of porpoises, gracefully bolting through the water as they chased after fish, very visible in great schools, after the storm. The sky seemed to be full of pelicans, diving from 50 feet in the air, beaks straight, necks straight, wings folded back, skillfully spearing their dinner, and carrying it aloft in their great beaks.

It was truly a magnificent sight of nature -- so many fish, the fast moving porpoises, the birds, so graceful -- and in full voice, as they filled the air with their chatter. It was enough to make the crew of the Le Ann almost forget about the bad 48 hours, during the storm that had frightened them half to death -- but not quite.

Howard was in good spirits. They had come through a great storm safely. He was already planning a return trip to the Sea of Cortez, for fishing and carefree sailing. The three members of Howard's crew listened to Howard's plans in silence for a few minutes, and then began to agree that another sailing adventure on the Sea of Cortez was a fine plan. There was just one stipulation -- Howard would have to make the trip with an entirely new crew!

Source: Baja Seafaring notes, Chubascos; Beverlee Swanson in McCook Daily Gazette; An unpublished manuscript of the adventure by Dorothy Henton